A cracking time in Krakow
Oct 14, 2005, 20:08
The Poles have a saying that if you want to make a living you go to their capital city, Warsaw, but if you actually want to live, you should go to Krakow.
This city in the country's south is steeped in a magical and momentous sense of history, and is still relatively free of the tourist hordes that have begun to be swayed away from the beaches of the Mediterranean by the undeniable charms of Eastern Europe.
Krakow is the old capital, the seat of the Kings, and many are buried in what is perhaps its most notable landmark, Wawel castle and cathedral, situated on the hill that nuzzles the bank of the vital Vistula river.
Take a tour of the whole place, but be sure to climb the Sigismund tower past the various bells to the largest in all of Poland, the Sigismund Bell, named after one of Poland's great warrior Kings.
Made by melting down the armour of armies defeated by the Poles, it is only rung on special occasions such as the election of new Popes, and would certainly have marked the death of Pope Jean Paul II, one of Poland's own sons and adored by young and old throughout the country. There are also excellent panoramic views of the city's many and varied roofs spires to be savoured.
Follow Wawel around to the river and you'll come to the Krakow Dragon's Den. Legend has it that Krakow was named after one Prince Krak, who rid the city of a dragon that was routinely terrorising its inhabitants. You can actually go inside the 200-foot long cave (look out for the bone remains on your way in), and a fire-breathing statue stands by the entrance.
The Rynek Glowny is the largest medieval market square in Europe, and is a wonderful place to engage in a spot of people watching, or indeed watching the world go by, while sipping a strong coffee at one of the many individual eateries that flank it.
Dominated by the vast cloth hall, with market stalls selling all manner of local and national handicrafts from wooden chess sets to exquisite amber paper knives and jewellery, it is the social hub of this welcoming city.
Flower sellers abound in the summer, and a Christmas market sets up shop selling mulled wine and kielbasa (thick, tasty sausage) in winter, and there are always artists and buskers keeping everyone entertained and in high spirits.
The tall, tower of St Mary's Church cuts an imposing figure in one corner, with a haunting, mournful bugle call playing every hour, connected to the city's history.
On one side of the cloth hall you will also find yourself gazing up at the statue of Romantic poet, Adam Mickiewicz, the Poles' very own Shakespeare and another source of their striking national pride.
Streets spread out in all directions from the square, with a range of cafes, bars, shops and cinemas catering for all tastes. Be sure to sample some of the local vodka - the apple flavour is a speciality – it tastes like apple pie, and the food is a combination of hearty soups (beetroot-based Borscht is a favourite) and lots of meat and potatoes in rich sauces.
There are many other winding streets, nooks and crannies to explore at your leisure, as Krakow really is a city in which to find your way spontaneously.
However, if you head from the square down past Wawel hill you come to the old Jewish quarter, Kazimierz, where many of the city's Jewish population still live today. There is a beautiful old Jewish cemetery that is well worth a wander around (although remember to cover your head), as well as a Synagogue and a couple of Jewish-inspired restaurants.
Cross the Vistula via the bridge and you will be in the old Jewish Ghetto, where scenes from Stephen Spielberg's Oscar-winning film, Schindler's List, were filmed. It is impossible not to feel the weight of Poland's turbulent, and often tragic, twentieth century history, at the same time as admiring its beauty and spirit.
Finally, all Poles love to ski in the winter, and if you are an enthusiast yourself, then think about taking a trip to nearby Zakopane, the country's main city for winter spirits. With plentiful skiing for all abilities by day, the bars come alive at night, and you can even take a sledge ride by starlight.
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